Silt-banks and surf-washed bars render the entrance to these rivers perilous.
He yelled Cynthia's name as he stumbled ahead until he reached the wind-driven surf splashing at his feet.
The shore is low, bordered in its eastern half with lagoons, and difficult of access on account of the submarine bar of sand which stretches along nearly the whole of the coast, and also because of the heavy surf caused by the great Atlantic billows.
The coasts are rocky and surf-worn and the approaches are exceedingly dangerous, the land rising immediately from the coasts to steep, bold mountains.
Claire was in the surf, her own sword just out of her reach but the necklace clenched in her hand.
A wharf equipped with cranes extends beyond the surf line and the town is served by a light railway.
Communication with ships can be effected only by catamarans and flatbottomed surf-boats.
[Lord Kelvin's formula (I) may be applied to find the surf acetension of a clean or contaminated liquid from observations upon the length of waves of known periodic time, travelling over the surface.
There are found strikingly developed marine terraces of gravel, shore lines and surf beaches marked on the solid rock.
The sea frontage extends about three miles; there is, however, no harbour, and steamers have to lie about a mile out, goods and passengers being landed in surf boats.
The roads are protected from every wind except the south, which occasions a heavy surf; but against this a mole was constructed in 1863.
The landings are generally dangerous because of the surf, and the anchorages are unsafe from storms on the unprotected side.
He drew up a scheme for the construction of a pier at Madras, to avoid the dangers of landing through the surf, and instructed his brother-in-law in England to obtain estimates from the engineers Brindley and Smeaton.
In the exciting sport of surf-riding, which always astonishes strangers, they balance themselves lying, kneeling or standing on a small board which is carried landwards on the curling crest of a great roller.
Ormarah, Khor Kalmat, Pasni and Gwadar are all somewhat difficult of approach by reason of a sand-bar which appears to extend along the whole coastline, and which is very possibly the last evidence of a submerged ridge; and they are all subject to a very lively surf under certain conditions of wind.
The conceivable variations in the conditions which would count in algal life are variations in the chemical character of the water - whether fresh, brackish or salt; or in the rate of movement of the water, whether relatively quiet, or a stream or a surf; or in the degree of illumination with the depth and transparency of the water.