The methods of binding the pagri are innumerable, each method having a distinctive name as arabi (Arab fashion); mansabi (official fashion, much used in the Deccan); mushakhi (sheik fashion); chakridar (worn by hadjis, that is those who have made the pilgrimage to Mecca); khirki-dar (a fashion of piling the cloth high, adopted by retainers of great men); latudar (top-shaped, worn by kayasths or writers); joridar (the cloth twisted into rope shape) (Plate I.
The chira is a pagri of checked cloth.
- Punjabi Mahommedan wearing pagri, with shimla, achkan izar or paejamas.
- Deccan Brahman wearing pagri, dhoti or pitamber, anga and dopatta.
The Bora adopts one of four forms of pagri; the Ujjain, a small neatly bound one; the Ahmadabad, a loose high one; the Surat, fuller and higher than the Ujjain pattern (Plate I.
The Khoja wears a pagri smaller than the Meman's, called a Moghalai phenta; this leaves a portion of the head bare at the back.
When the turban is worn it is always of the pagri form, never the amamah.
Hindus wind the pagri in various ways as described for Mussulmans, but the angles are formed over the ears and not from front to back.
The pagri is known in different parts of India as pag, phenta, phag, phagdi and many other names.
The Sikh nobility and gentry wear two turbans, either both of pagri form or one of pagri and one of amamah form.